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遵义丰胸遵义哪里丰胸有效果The world has passed a tipping point in the fight against Aids, according to data showing that more people gained access to HIV drugs last year than became infected with the virus.国际社会抗击艾滋病(Aids)的斗争走过了一个转折点。数据显示,去年,接受抗艾滋病病毒(HIV)药物治疗的人数超过了感染这种病毒的人数。This marks the first time since anti#173;retroviral medicines were introduced 27 years ago that treatment of HIV has expanded at a higher rate than the incidence of the virus itself.这是自27年前抗逆转录病毒药物问世以来,接受抗艾滋病病毒治疗的人数首次超过艾滋病病毒感染的人数。“We’re not saying the end of Aids is near but we have reached an important milestone where, for the first time, we are getting ahead of the disease,” said Erin Hohlfelder, health policy director for One, an anti-poverty group that highlights the watershed in a report to mark today’s World Aids Day.扶贫组织One的卫生政策主任埃琳#8226;霍尔菲尔德(Erin Hohlfelder)表示:“我们并不是说艾滋病即将被消灭,但我们已经达到了一个重要的里程碑,我们第一次跑在了艾滋病前面。”今日是世界艾滋病日(World Aids Day),在一份纪念这个日子的报告中,该组织强调了这个转折点。In 2013 – the most recent year for which data are available – 2.3m people were added to treatment programmes compared with 2.1m new infections.2013年,有230万人开始接受抗艾滋病病毒治疗,而新增艾滋病病毒感染者为210万人。目前还拿不到2014年的数据。This marked an improvement from the year before when 1.6m people gained access to medicines for the first time while 2.2m were newly infected.上述数据标志着,去年的情况较前年有所改善。前年,有160万人首次接受药物治疗,而新增感染者为220万人。Antiretroviral drugs now reach 13.6m people around the world, but this still represents less than half the estimated 35m people living with HIV.目前,全球累计有1360万人得到抗逆转录病毒药物治疗,但这个数字仍不到艾滋病病毒携带者人数的一半,后者估计有3500万人。Ms Hohlfelder warned there was a long way to go before victory could be declared. “We’ve passed the tipping point globally but not all countries are there yet, and the gains made can easily stall or unravel,” she said.霍尔菲尔德警告称,现在还远不到宣布胜利的时候。她说:“就全球而言,我们确实走过了这个转折点,但并非对所有国家都是如此。而且,我们取得的进展很容易陷入停滞或付诸东流。”Global funding for anti-HIV programmes reached .1bn last year but this is still below the annual bn-bn the UN says is needed.去年,全球用于抗艾滋病病毒的资金达到191亿美元,但仍低于联合国(UN)认为需要达到的水平,即每年220亿至240亿美元。Ms Hohlfelder said middle-income countries were beginning to contribute more but the three leading donors – the US, France and the UK – were carrying an “unsustainable” share of the #173;burden.霍尔菲尔德表示,中等收入国家开始捐出更多资金,但三个主要捐助国(美国、法国和英国)目前的负担比例是“不可持续”的。“Many donor countries – such as Australia, Japan and some in the Middle East – really haven’t stepped up as much as we’d have liked.”“很多捐助国——例如澳大利亚、日本及中东一些国家——的前进速度的确还赶不上我们的期望。”Activists and health officials warn against the risk of complacency when HIV is becoming seen in the developed world as a manageable chronic disease because of the potential for people to live an almost normal lifespan on the latest antiretroviral drugs.由于最新的抗逆转录病毒药物使得艾滋病病毒感染者的预期寿命有可能逼近正常人的水平,艾滋病在发达国家正慢慢地被视为一种可控的慢性病,但活动人士和卫生官员警告称,要提防可能出现的自满情绪。They say HIV remains one of the #173;gravest health threats across much of the developing world, especially Africa, which has almost 70 per cent of cases.他们说,在许多发展中国家,艾滋病病毒依然是对人类健康的最严重威胁之一,特别是在非洲,那里的感染者占全球的近70%。More rapid gains may be hard to achieve as the virus becomes concentrated among hard-to-reach groups, such as sex workers and drug users, as well as gay people and youths who may shun testing and treatment.随着某些难以触及的群体成为这种病毒的主要感染者,比如性工作者和吸毒者、以及可能躲避检测和治疗的同性恋人群和青年,可能很难取得更多的快速进展。Michel Sidibé, executive director of UNAids, which leads the global response to HIV, says a push is needed to meet a target to end the epidemic by 2030. “We have bent the trajectory of the epidemic. Now we have five years to break it for good or risk the epidemic rebounding out of control.”领导全球抗击艾滋病的联合国艾滋病规划署(UNAids)的执行主任米歇尔#8226;西迪贝(Michel Sidibé)说,要实现到2030年时结束艾滋病疫情的目标,需要发动一场大规模攻势。“我们已经改变了这一疫情的发展轨迹。现在,我们有五年的时间来永久性地挫败它,否则疫情可能会反弹至失控的程度。”Pharmaceutical companies, once #173;pilloried for keeping HIV drugs out of reach of the poor, have lent support to the effort by licensing their medicines for generic manufacturers to make at a low cost in the developing world.某些制药公司曾因把穷人挡在抗艾滋病病毒药物治疗的大门之外而受到公众的嘲笑。现在,它们已通过授权发展中国家的仿制药厂商以较低成本生产它们的药物,来持抗击艾滋病的努力。AbbVie today became the fifth big company to grant a licence for generic production to the UN-backed Medicines Patent Pool, following Bristol-Myers Squibb, Gilead Sciences, Roche and ViiV Healthcare, a joint venture between GlaxoSmithKline and Pfizer.今日,艾伯维(AbbVie)成为第五家授予联合国资助的药品专利池组织(MPP)仿制药生产许可的大公司。此前已签署许可协议的企业包括百时美施贵宝(Bristol-Myers Squibb)、吉利德科学公司(Gilead Sciences)、罗氏(Roche),以及葛兰素史克(GSK)和辉瑞(Pfizer)的合资公司ViiV Healthcare。The agreement with AbbVie involves two antiretrovirals formulated for paediatric use and helps address a shortage of treatments suitable for the 3.2m children with HIV in the world.艾伯维与药品专利池组织签署的协议包括两种为儿科使用配制的抗逆转录病毒药物,可帮助缓解儿童适用药物短缺的问题。全球有320万儿童感染了艾滋病病毒。AbbVie’s lopinavir and ritonavir drugs will be available to generic producers in the 102 countries where almost all children with HIV live.102个国家的仿制药厂商将可生产艾伯维的洛匹那韦(lopinavir)和利托那韦(ritonavir)药物。几乎所有感染了艾滋病病毒的儿童都生活在这102个国家。“This is a crucial licence for paediatric programmes in resource-limited countries,” said Greg Perry, executive director of the Medicines Patent Pool.药品专利池组织执行主任格雷格#8226;佩里(Greg Perry)说:“这对资源有限国家的儿科治疗计划而言是一项关键的授权。” /201412/346217遵义塌鼻子整形 遵义如何祛除腋毛

遵义医学院预约For years, Google CEO Larry Page had dreamed about a tantalizing possibility: using balloons, rather than satellites, for communications.多年来,谷歌公司(Google)首席执行官拉里o佩奇一直怀揣着一个美妙的梦想,那就是用气球代替卫星进行通讯。There were plenty of reasons why the idea was interesting. Satellites take years to build and cost millions of dollars to build and launch. For someone used to releasing products in “beta,” and perfecting them through rapid iteration, this was a huge barrier to innovation. “You’re pretty averse in your development of these things,” Page said during a recent interview. What’s more, the cost and time involved in a launch often led to technology lock-in—if something you’ve invested millions in works, you’re going to stick with it rather than trying to perfect it and risk a setback.这个想法很有意思,原因是多方面的。制造并发射一颗卫星需要几年时间,还要耗费数百万美元资金。对习惯于发布“测试版”产品并通过快速迭代来予以完善的人来说,这是一个巨大的创新障碍。佩奇最近接受采访时说:“在开发这些东西时会遇到相当大的抵触。”此外,为推出新产品而投入的成本和时间经常会产生技术锁定效应——如果你为某项工作投入了几百万美元,你就会坚持使用其中的技术,而不会冒着受挫的风险来设法完善它。Balloons offered an alternative. What if you could launch a balloon, test it, bring it down, learn something, and repeat, all in the course of a day? Then, you could go back and do it all over the next day. “It’s a natural question to ask,” Page said.气球提供了另一种通讯方式。假如能在一天内完成放出气球、测试、回收、吸取经验教训、然后再来一遍的过程,会怎么样呢?而且,第二天还可以追溯、重复这个过程。佩奇说:“人们自然会问这样的问题。”It was also a crazy enough idea that no one was working on it. To Page, that was a classic “zero million dollar” research problem. “You find no one working on it,” he said. “And you know that zero million dollars are going into that problem.”同时,这个想法很疯狂,还没有人付诸实施。对佩奇来说,这是一个经典的“零起步百万美元”研究课题。他指出:“你会发现没有人开展这项工作,你也知道还没有人为此投入资金。”Many of Google’s moonshots—self driving cars, high-altitude wind turbines, and most recently ingestible nano-particles for early detection of cancer—started as zero million dollar problems. And as no one was working on them, Google was able to attract some of the top people in field, which Page says gives the company a huge advantage.谷歌许多“探月计划”都从这些起步为零的百万美元课题开始,比如无人驾驶汽车和高海拔风力发电机,以及最近用于检测早期癌症的可用纳米技术微粒。同时,由于还没有人从事这些研究,谷歌得以把这些领域的一些顶尖人才招至麾下。佩奇说这给谷歌带来了巨大的优势。But not every crazy idea is worth pursuing. So how do you sort the crazy-but-possible ideas from the plain crazy ones? Page said Google takes a methodical and gradual approach.但并非每个疯狂的想法都值得实施。那么,如何区分那些疯狂但有可能的想法与纯粹的狂想呢?佩奇表示,谷歌采用一个系统性的渐进方式。A big question with balloons was whether they could stay up long enough—weeks or months on end—on a regular basis to be useful for communications. Ballooning experts believed it was impossible.通讯气球的一大问题是悬浮时间是否足够长。要用于通讯的话,通常情况下气球需在空中停留几个星期,甚至几个月。气球专家认为这绝不可能。Page took to Google, of course, to search and search and search. “Eventually I found this balloon image from 1960 that had gone around the Earth like five times,” he said. “If somebody in 1960 can do that, we can do that. We have better materials.”当然,佩奇在谷歌上进行了反反复复的搜索:“最终我找到了这幅1960年的气球图片,它曾绕着地球飞行了大概五次。如果1960年的人能做到这一点,我们也能做到。我们有更好的材料。”Today, Project Loon, which the company’s moonshot lab, Google X, unveiled last year, is testing a fleet of balloons that are routinely staying up in the air for 100 days at a time. They’ve covered more than 3 million kilometers, or about 2 million miles. In tests with telecommunications companies in Australia, New Zealand and Chile, they’re delivering speeds of 10 megabits per second to rural areas.如今,Project Loon正在对一批气球进行测试——谷歌的“探月”实验室Google X去年披露了这个项目。测试气球通常每次都能在空中停留100天,其累计漂浮的距离已超过300万公里。与澳大利亚、新西兰和智利电信公司联合开展的测试表明,这些气球能为农村地区提供10MB/秒的通讯带宽。Page’s idea is no longer a zero million dollar problem. Google has invested millions in the projects, hired top scientists and conducted hundreds of tests in different environments. But at the genesis of this, and several other moonshots, there were some key ingredients: Page’s natural curiosity and his impulse for self-directed learning, which he traces to his education in a Montessori school.佩奇的想法再已不再是零起步百万美元课题。谷歌已经为这些项目投入了数百万美元,聘请了顶尖科研人员,并在不同环境下进行了几百次测试。究其根源,这些“探月”项目源于两个关键因素:佩奇天生的好奇心和他进行自主学习的冲劲。佩奇说这种冲劲源于自己在蒙特梭利学校(Montessori school)接受的教育。“How do you play detective a little bit and then how do you convert that into things that can transform how a billion people can get their connectivity,” he said. “That’s the exciting part.”他说:“如何稍稍进行一些探究,然后如何把结果转化成可以改变10亿人通讯方式的产品,这是最激动人心的部分。”Exciting. And fairly straightforward—at least if you’re the world’s most ambitious CEO. “You see some evidence that it’s possible and you try to figure things out,” Page said. “And you say, well, maybe that’s the question we should be asking.”激动人心。这样的说法很是直截了当——至少对世界上最有胆识的首席执行官来说是这样。佩奇表示:“当你看到一些明某件事可行的据时,你就得尽力把事情弄清楚。你会说,也许这就是我们该问的问题。” /201411/343190遵义瘦腿针大概多少钱 Riccardo Tisci is sitting at a table in the parquet-floored showrooms of Givenchy in Paris, contemplating his upcoming 10-year anniversary. “It seems like yesterday,” says the designer, a swarthy 40-year-old who is today sporting a slight peppering of stubble and short, cropped hair.里卡尔多#8226;蒂希(Riccardo Tisci)端坐在巴黎纪梵希(Givenchy)总部镶花地板的陈列室里的桌子旁,想着即将到来的自己担任纪梵希创意总监的10周年纪念。“一切就像发生在昨天的事,”皮肤黝黑的设计师如是说,他今年已届不惑之年,今天的他理了一头稍显浓密而又粗硬的短平发。Emotionally, maybe, but times have changed. In 2005, Givenchy was on the verge of bankruptcy, and the atelier reeling from successive design appointments that had seen John Galliano, Alexander McQueen and Julien Macdonald enter and exit the building within years of each other. “I had to cross the street to use the public photocopier because there wasn’t a working one in the Givenchy studio. We didn’t have the money.”从情感上讲或许是如此,但如今的纪梵希早已今非昔比。2005年,纪梵希濒临破产,当时的设计室因几任设计总监如走马灯似地更换而“风雨飘摇”,几年里,它先后“迎来送往”了约翰#8226;加里亚诺(John Galliano)、亚历山大#8226;麦昆(Alexander McQueen)以及朱利安#8226;麦克唐纳(Julien Macdonald)等多位设计总监。“我不得不到街对面去使用公用复印机,因为纪梵希设计室没有一台能正常使用,我们当时连维修的钱都没有。”No one expected much then of LVMH’s signing, a streetwise Italian in jeans and sneakers who had studied at Central St Martins in London and staged only two collections under his own label, in Milan. “They called me ‘goth’,” says Tisci, speaking quickly in a strongly accented English that is nuanced with Londonisms and regularly defers to people as “baby”.那时没人看好这位路威酩轩(LVMH)新签入的街头浪子模样的意大利设计师。他穿着牛仔裤与运动鞋,毕业于伦敦中央圣马丁艺术设计学院(Central St Martins),之前只在米兰举行了两场自创品牌的发布会。“时装圈称我是‘哥特人(野蛮人)’,”蒂希说,他的语速很快,说的英语口音很重,与伦敦腔英语有些差别,经常尊称别人为“baby”。“Tom Ford was doing sexy and glam, and I was doing goth. I was very dark. And the press killed me.” He pauses. “It’s OK,” says, flicking the tip of an American Spirit into a nearby ashtray. “The same people that hated me then#8201;.#8201;.#8201;.#8201;After six years, they came.”“汤姆#8226;福特(Tom Ford)走的是性感和华丽路线,而我则是哥特式的设计风格,我非常崇尚黑色。当时媒体把我说得一无是处。”他停了一会儿然后又说,“不过没关系,”并把American Spirit烟灰轻轻弹进一旁的烟灰缸。“当时对我口诛笔伐的同一波人……六年后,反过来对我大唱赞歌。”Tisci’s quiet direction, determined work ethic and intuitive brilliance have since transformed Givenchy, re-energising the fabled couture house founded by Hubert de Givenchy in 1952, and turning it into a profitable business (exact figures are frustratingly buried within the LVMH group’s aggregated financial statements).蒂希稳重不张扬、坚持不懈的行事风格以及超常的直觉彻底改变了纪梵希,让这家于贝尔#8226;德#8226;纪梵希(Hubert de Givenchy)于1952年创建、富有传奇色的高级时装品牌重焕了勃勃生机,并成为财源滚滚的品牌(让人扫兴的是:其准确财务数据则淹没在路威酩轩浩繁的总财报中)。Today, his influence reaches from the Holly#173;wood red carpet – Cate Blanchett, Rooney Mara and Rihanna are all devotees of his darkly sensuous gowns – to the street: Givenchy printed sweats featuring totems of popular culture have become mandatory uniform among the louche-luxe weekend set.如今,他的影响力已经如日中天,从好莱坞(凯特#8226;布兰切特(Cate Blanchett)、鲁妮#8226;玛拉(Rooney Mara)到蕾哈娜(Rihanna))的红地毯到寻常阡陌:印有流行文化标识的纪梵希运动衫已成为离经叛道奢侈一族的周末必备行头。In 2008, he launched a highly successful menswear line. In 2012, he stopped showing couture. In September, he enshrined Kim Kardashian’s status as a fashion idol when he designed the reality star’s wedding dress. Elsewhere, his recent collaborations with Nike, a take on the Air Force 1 trainers he has worn since childhood, have offered kids a slice of Tisci cool with a bit more bounce for their buck.2008年,他推出了风靡一时的男装系列。2012年,他不再举办高级定制时装发布会。今年九月,他为真人秀明星金#8226;卡戴珊(Kim Kardashian)设计婚纱裙后,一下子让对方升格成了时尚偶像。此外,他最近与耐克(Nike)联手推出了Air Force 1复制版运动鞋(他从孩提时代就穿该鞋),既赋予了孩子们一丝蒂希式的时尚感,更给他们增添了些许青春狂野味。This democratic, provocative, disarming, often moody refocus of a label once synonymous with refined elegance and a rarefied clientele, has been fundamental to Tisci’s vision. He makes no apology for it. Furthermore, he argues, his Givenchy reflects the same sensibility of its patrician founder.纪梵希这个时尚品牌曾经与精致优雅以及极少数高端客户为伴,如今它重新以平民化、刺激性、惬意感以及情绪化为重点,它是蒂希的核心设计理念。他没有对此表示出一丝“悔改”,更有甚者,他坚称自己设计的纪梵希与贵族家庭出生的创始人于贝尔在情感上是一脉相承的。“Givenchy was one of the chicest of the luxury labels,” says Tisci. “But Hubert had a dark side. I discovered that when I went down to the archives. In the 1950s you couldn’t express that darkness, but you could see the severity of the design and I was attracted to it. We brought the street to the label, and made Givenchy more honest and real.”“纪梵希曾是最为时尚的奢侈品牌之一,”蒂希说。“但于贝尔内心有黑暗情节,我是在研读相关档案时发现这一点的。上世纪50年代,你无法直接表达这种‘黑暗情节’,但可以感同深受时装的庄重感,我对此则痴迷不已。我们曾汲取了寻常生活元素,让纪梵希变得更为纯粹与真实。”#8201;.#8201;.#8201;.#8201;#8201;.#8201;.#8201;.#8201;Walk into a Givenchy store today, as one can, in Chongqing, China, or Kuwait, or most recently Las Vegas, and you will find #163;400 polo shirts with #163;250 chain-ring earrings and #163;4,000 butterfly-printed silk chiffon dresses next to #163;500 sneakers: Tisci’s high-low fashion has been key to the brand’s alchemy.如今走进任何一家纪梵希门店,不管是在中国的重庆、科威特,还是在(最新开设门店)美国的,都能看到运动鞋(售价500英镑)是和环链耳环(售价250英镑)及印有蝴蝶图案的真丝雪纺连衣裙(售价4000英镑),和与之搭配的开领短袖衬衫(售价400英镑)摆放在一起:蒂希的高低档时装混搭式销售一直是纪梵希畅销世界的绝招。 /201412/350061遵义面部轮廓综合整形多少钱

遵义腹部吸脂的效果 Every couple of weeks, Andrew Livingston, 22, a co-founder of a Brooklyn men#39;s wear company, stops on his way home from work for a drink — either a glass of pale ale or an espresso — in a setting where he typically finds like-minded guys.今年22岁的安德鲁·利文斯顿(Andrew Livingston)是布鲁克林一家男装公司的联合创始人。每隔两个星期,在下班回家的路上,他就会去喝点什么,不是一杯苦啤,便是一杯espresso。在那里,他总能找到一些和自己志趣相投的朋友。His destination: the Williamsburg location of Blind Barber, where haircuts are offered alongside 10 types of beer, including four varieties on tap, and cappuccinos made with Blue Bottle coffee and prepared in an airy cafe adjacent to the hairdressing space. Along with his drink order, Mr. Livingston gets a trim while seated in one of four vintage salon chairs.他去的就是Blind Barber理发店在威廉斯堡(Williamsburg)的店面,那里45美元(约合人民币279元)的理发务配有10款酒水饮品,包括4种不同的桶装啤酒,和几款在理发店旁一家通风的咖啡店里用蓝樽咖啡(Blue Bottle coffee)调制的卡布奇诺。利文斯顿坐在店内四把高级沙龙椅中的一把椅子上,一边选择饮品下单,一边等着理发。“It’s a nice spot to kind of catch your breath,” he said. “For guys, especially in a place like New York, it’s important to have an environment like that, where you can just kind of de-stress, chill and talk.”“这是个不错的地方,很有吸引力,”他说。“尤其是在纽约这样的城市里,对男性而言,能有个那样的环境让你释放压力、好好休息并聊聊天是非常重要的。”Blind Barber’s co-founder Jeff Laub said: “It’s not just about making on a coffee. That coffee is supposed to start a conversation, develop a friendship and then hopefully spark something else.”Blind Barber的创始人之一杰夫·劳布(Jeff Laub)说:“这不只是为了在一杯咖啡上赚3美元(约合人民币19元)。有了那杯咖啡,就可以开始交谈,可以建立友谊,进而产生新的想法。”The cafe-barbershop is a growing trend. Dr. Alon Gratch, a clinical psychologist who wrote “If Men Could Talk: Translating the Secret Language of Men,” said that such a place “seems new, in that it provides a space for conversation.”现在,咖啡厅式的理发店越来越流行了。一位写了《解读男人心:翻译男人密码》(If Men Could Talk: Translating the Secret Language of Men)的临床心理学家阿龙#8226; 葛瑞奇(Alon Gratch)说,这样一处地方“显得有新意,原因在于这里提供了一处可以交谈的场所”。“It is bridging the gap a little bit and moving in the direction of what women do, but in a more unique ‘guy’ way,” he said. “The other traditional places for guys to hang out together are bars, which are very noisy, so there’s no real potential for conversation, or sports events, and the same goes for them.”“这里把男女之间的差距缩小了一点,原本女人做的事,男人也可以去做了,但方式更加男性化,”他说。“过去,男人们往往在酒吧里聚会,但那里的环境非常吵闹,不太适合彼此交谈,再就是一些体育活动,但情况也是一样。”Strictly speaking, these establishments do not bar women, but most schedule appointments at tight intervals to accommodate short haircuts. They typically feature straight-razor shaves and beard trims prominently on their concise s of services.严格来说,这些地方并不拒绝女人,但多数理发店由于预约都排得很满,所以接的都是一些剪短发的活儿。这些理发店往往都把剃须与修髯两项业务一目了然地列在他们那份简明的务清单上。Catering particularly to a style-conscious clientele, these shops list haircut prices several times that of a traditional men’s walk-in barbershop, and the décor has more in common with a farm-to-table restaurant or men#39;s wear boutique than a beauty salon (except for a prominent display of scissors, combs and glass jars of Barbicide).由于这些理发店迎合的是一群有时尚意识的客户,所以他们开列的价格也比那些随到随剪的传统男性理发店要高数倍,而且这些理发店的装修也更像一家“农场直供餐桌”的餐厅,或是一家男装精品店,而非美发沙龙(只不过店内到处都能看到剪刀、梳子与美发产品Barbicide的玻璃罐)。Although coifs and comestibles would not seem to have much in common, for a specific demographic, a cappuccino made with locally roasted, ethically grown beans is a natural accompaniment to high-caliber haircuts.虽然美发与美食似乎相去甚远,然而,对某些特定的人群而言,一杯以栽培得当、当地烘焙的咖啡豆烹煮而成的卡布奇诺,自然与那些高档理发店相得益彰。“It’s definitely the same group of customers,” said Steve Marks, who owns Persons of Interest, a barbershop that teamed up with Parlor Coffee to serve espresso drinks at its Williamsburg location. “It’s all one piece. The same people who are going to get a great haircut are the same people who are keen to have the best coffee.”“这显然是同一群客户,”Persons of Interest理发店的所有者史蒂夫·马克思(Steve Marks)说,他在威廉斯堡的门店与Parlor Coffee咖啡店携手合作,为客人提供espresso咖啡。“没有差别。愿意做漂亮发型的是那些人,喜欢喝上等咖啡的也是那些人。”As Dillon Edwards, the founder of Parlor Coffee, put it, “The guy that will spend on a haircut will also spend on a cup of coffee.”正如Parlor Coffee的创始人狄龙·爱德华兹(Dillon Edwards)所言,“愿意花45美元做头发的人,自然也愿意再花5美元喝杯咖啡。”Even in neighborhoods saturated with coffee bars and hair salons, new combination businesses along these lines continue to pop up, having acquired the necessary cafe or liquor licenses. In March, Cotter Barber opened in Greenpoint, Brooklyn, complete with a La Marzocco manual espresso machine perched on a reclaimed wood counter in front and four antique barber chairs in back. (It is somewhat more unisex, but the majority of the clientele is male.) At the Williamsburg location of Fellow Barber, coffee service was introduced in February. Both cafe-barbershops get their coffee beans from artisanal roasters (San Francisco’s Four Barrel Coffee and Tandem Coffee of Portland, Me.).即便在已经遍布咖啡馆与美发店的社区里,这种二合一的新型商业模式也在不断涌现,它们还取得了咖啡酒水类产品的经营执照。今年三月,Cotter Barber理发店在布鲁克林的绿点区开业了,店内配有一台La Marzocco的特浓咖啡手动烹调机,就放在前面一个可循环利用的木质柜台上,另外还有四把古董美发椅放在后面(虽然这家店男女皆宜,但大部分主顾都是男性)。Fellow Barber理发店于今年二月在威廉斯堡的门店中开始提供咖啡。这两家店目前都在向一些手工烘焙咖啡豆的商家(例如旧金山的Four Barrel咖啡店与缅因州波特兰的Tandem咖啡店)购买咖啡豆。The combination of barbershops and beverages extends well beyond Brooklyn. In Toronto, for example, there is a bar inside Rod, Gun amp; Barbers, where cigar smoking is also encouraged. In San Francisco, Peoples Barber amp; Shop serves cold beer, as does the Duke Barber Co. in Philadelphia. The Modern Man, a chain of five salons in Portland, Ore., offers beer and bourbon from local purveyors. Fellow Barber plans to add a bar to its Detroit location.而这种酒水结合理发的务已不再局限于布鲁克林了。例如在多伦多,理发店Rod, Gun amp; Barbers在店内设有一个吧台,在那里抽雪茄是受到鼓励的。在旧金山,Peoples Barber amp; Shop 理发店可提供冰啤,而在费城,Duke Barber Co.理发店也一样。在俄勒冈州的波特兰市,有五家门店的连锁美发沙龙The Modern Man可提供来自当地供应商的啤酒与波旁威士忌。而在底特律,Fellow Barber理发店正打算在其门店内增设一个吧台。In the years before the new breed came along, the popularity of barbershops was on the wane. According to “Encyclopedia of Hair: A Cultural History,” they went into a slump in the mid-’60s, and thousands went out of business. In the ’90s, books like “The American Barbershop: A Closer Look at a Disappearing Place,” by Mic Hunter, and “The Vanishing American Barbershop: An Illustrated History of Tonsorial Art 1860-1960,” by Ronald S. Barlow, suggested they were all but finished.在这些新生代的理发店出现之前,传统理发店的人气多年来已经每况愈下。据《美发百科:一部文化史》(Encyclopedia of Hair: A Cultural History)记载,在20世纪60年代中期,理发店数量骤减,成千上万家店面关门大吉。而在90年代,诸如麦克·亨特(Mic Hunter)的《美国理发店:近距离观察正在消失的地方》(The American Barbershop: A Closer Look at a Disappearing Place)与罗纳德·S·巴洛(Ronald S. Barlow)的《正在消失的美国理发店:图解1860-1960理发艺术史》(The Vanishing American Barbershop: An Illustrated History of Tonsorial Art )等书就曾指出,理发店差一点就不复存在了。“They were associated with a generation of postwar men — either World War I or World War II — who had very short hair, very corporate hair,” said Dr. Allan Peterkin, a professor of psychiatry at the University of Toronto and the author of three books on men’s grooming. “Then you get into the ’60s, with the hippies, and the ’70s, with the mustache swingers. In the ’70s and ’80s, you started to see more unisex salons, when men had more elaborate haircuts, and they thought that the barber couldn’t do it.“这种情况涉及战后那一代的男人——不管是‘一战’还是‘二战’——他们当时都留着非常短的头发,有非常好打理的发型,”多伦多大学的一位精神病学教授阿兰·彼得金士(Dr. Allan Peterkin)说,他还写了三本关于男性穿着打扮的著作。“然后进入60年代,流行嬉皮士,再到70年代,流行长须浪子。在70年代至80年代,你开始看见,有更多男女皆宜的美发沙龙,那时候男人梳着更讲究的发型,但他们觉得这样的发型在理发店里做不出来。”“Today, a lot of men are wearing their hair short — the hipsters wear short, short cuts, even if they have bushy beards — so it’s a swing back to shorter hairstyles; barbers were always the ones who were the best at those.”“如今,有许多男人都留起了短发——那些嬉波士们(hipsters)则留着超短发,哪怕他们蓄了浓密的长胡须——所以,发型潮流又回到了较短的风格;这是理发师们从来都很擅长的一种发型。”The cafe-barbershop hybrids are regaining the cultural territory held by barbershops in the days before the decline.这种咖啡理发混合的商业模式重新占领了传统理发店衰落之前所攻占的那片文化领域。“These combinations are almost like community centers,” said Emma McKay, the executive editor of AskMen, a male-centric website. “In modern society, guys are lacking men-only spaces, and the barbershop still works as a male-first space.”“这些结合了两种务的门店几乎成了社区里的中心地带,”一家男性门户网站AskMen的执行编辑艾玛·麦凯(Emma McKay)说。“在现代社会中,男人们都缺少仅供男性交流的空间,但这些理发店作为一个男性优先的地方仍然有这样的作用。”Stylish men find the environment at such places more inviting than that of a no-frills neighborhood barbershop.有些追求时尚的男性发现,这些理发店的环境比没有装修的社区理发店更吸引人。Carlos Garcia, 32, a restaurant management consultant, still goes now and then for the haircut at a walk-in shop near his apartment in Gowanus, Brooklyn, where he waits his turn while sitting in a vinyl-covered chair. But he has found the experience at Cotter Barber to be more pleasant. There he sits with an Americano in hand; on nice days, he can relax in the shop’s backyard.今年32岁的餐厅管理顾问卡洛斯·加西亚(Carlos Garcia)仍然会偶尔光顾在他的布鲁克林区格瓦纳斯(Gowanus)公寓附近的一家10美元(约合人民币62元)一次、随到随剪的理发店,他坐在店里的一把塑料椅子上等着轮到自己理发。但他发现,在Cotter Barber理发店的体验更加愉快。他手里端着一杯美式咖啡坐在店里;天气好的时候,他还可以在这家店的后院里消遣。“I totally appreciate going in and having coffee I enjoy, since there’s usually a long wait,” Mr. Garcia said.“我真的很愿意进去点一杯我喜欢的咖啡,因为通常都要等上好一会儿,”加西亚说。Jon Wilde, an articles editor at GQ who lives in Brooklyn, said the cafe-barbeshops are “making that haircut feel like an experience and not an obligation. These places are inching us toward that hashtag ‘treat yourself’ moment, where you don’t mind going and taking care of yourself a little bit.”《GQ》杂志的编辑、现住布鲁克林的乔恩·王尔德(Jon Wilde)说,这种咖啡厅式理发店“让人觉得理发像是一次体验,而不是什么必须做的事情。这些地方让我们渐入佳境,懂得要‘善待自己’,因而不妨常去,对自己稍微好一点儿。”“Yes, the haircut might be a bit more expensive,” he said, “but you can have a beer if you want, and they are going to take good care of you.”“是的,在这里理发可能有点贵,”他说,“但如果你愿意,可以喝杯啤酒,而且,他们让你非常享受。” /201506/382772遵义半永久定妆遵义祛斑




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